Bhairavgad - A memorable hike in Koyna Wildlife Sanctuary

"We do not fear the unknown.

We fear what we think we know about the unknown. "

- Teal Swan

Bhairavgad nestled in the dense forest of Koyna Wildlife Sanctuary had remained elusive for many years. Every time I opened the Gadkot book by Bhagwan Chile Sir, my curiosity towards Bhairavgad further increased. I tried to plan it couple of times but no success. After a short gap of Diwali, it was time to kick start the winter trekking season and plan of Bhairavgad along with Jungli Jaigad was proposed in my Pune Trekking Group and soon a group of 7 was formed. Vinit Date, our trek mate had already done Bhairavgad and he called me providing all the detail plan of including local guide's member.

All plan was set during the week. There was one cancellation; one replacement; another cancellation and another replacement and another cancellation. So count of seven was reduced to six and following members were able to make it for the trek:

Prashant Kothawade, Tushar Kothawade, Chinmay Kirtane, Deva Ghanekar, Mukund Pate, Virag Rokde

"Whoever is late beyond 5.30 am will miss the trek and will be left in Pune" was the message I posted in the group and everyone made sure that they adhere to the instructions. As none of us had earlier done Jungli Jaigad or Bhairavgad, all were pretty excited and we started from Pune sharp at 5.30 am in Tushar Dada's Innova.

After breakfasting at Umbraj, we resumed the journey towards Jungli Jaigad. Dense forest with chilling wind welcomed us as we crossed Koynanagar. Soon, we reached to village Nauja and started conversation with two men who happened to be government employees:

"Can we get guide to Jungli Jaigad?"
"Yes, you will get it. Have you taken the permission from forest department from Koyna"
"No, can't we take it from here?"
"No, you have to go back to Koynanagar's forest office to obtain the permission"
"Can you do anything for us to get this permission?"
"No, most of the forest officers are inside the forest right now and it would be a big problem if you enter without permission. So it is better if you get the permission"
"Ok, We will come back with the proper permission"

After travelling back for 8 kilometres to Koynanagar, we wasted around 15 minutes in locating forest office. On entering the office, we were told that entry to Jungli Jaigad is prohibited as the tiger census was in progress. Still there was a glimmer of hope of obtaining the permission from the main forest officer. As forest officer was busy, we were made to wait for 10 minutes. Soon, we were called into the cabin of the forest officer. We updated our purpose of visit and our past experiences of trekking. Forest Officer seemed pleasant but much to our dismay, he smilingly declined the permission. After chatting with him for 10 minutes, we realised that we were only wasting our time. Disappointed, we came out.

Pawar Uncle from Koynanagar whom we had asked earlier for the direction of forest office was listening to our conversation. Seeing our disappointment, he invited us at his home for Tea and we accepted the offer. Pawar Uncle told us many interesting stories about Koynanagar colonies; prevalence of leopards in the area; harassment of locals by forest officials and much more. After spending half an hour at his house, we thanked him for all the hospitality and started towards Bhairavgad much early than anticipated.

As per our earlier plan, we were supposed to stay at Chaphe Khadak village at night and start for Bhairavgad at 7 am and come back by 4 PM on Sunday. Because of our failed plan of Jungli Jaigad, we had the whole afternoon with us. Initially we decided to spend whole afternoon relaxing at Ramghal which is 10 minutes walking distance from Chaphe Khadak village but as we reached towards the village, we changed the plan. I called Jaywant Lambhore - our guide and updated him on our current situation and asked him whether we could leave for Bhairavgad right away and stay at the Bhairavnath temple at night. He immediately agreed.

We parked our vehicle in front of a house below the village and followed ascending wide dirt trail to reach a large plateau from where the village was at striking distance. Jaywant Lambhore joined us from behind. He literally ran from Helwak village to join us as he was at Helwak village when I called him just few minutes back.

Ascending to Chaphe Khadak village:

Reaching to the plateau of Chaphe Khadak village:

Jaywant Lambhore escorted us to his house. We perched on the front porch of his house, had packed lunch, rested for half an hour and started for Bhairavgad around 2 in the afternoon. Though it was the month of November, heat was unbearable when we started the hike.

House of our guide:

Our guide's son:

Team ready for the hike:

Soon, we had respite from the heat as we entered in the dark forest. Trail of gradual descent led us to a small stream which transforms into the magnificent waterfall upstream.

We filled few water bottles from this pure, fresh mineral water and marched ahead.

Some flutter in the bushes caught our attention and we spotted a wild hen slowly disappearing into the bushes. Thrilled to see our first sighting of the wild life, we marched ahead hoping to catch few more surprises.

Pair of butterflies:

On the trail, we spotted few clay patches specifically created for the purpose of counting tigers. We got to know from Virag Rokde that these clay patches catch the footprints of tigers which help in counting number of tigers. We were elated to gain this new knowledge from Virag.

Webs of Tunnel Spider were spread on the nearby trunks of the trees.

Into the wild:

Vibrant colours of nature:

It is advisable not to walk alone in this dense forest.

We reached to a hut located at the edge of the hill.

Now, we had to descend a hill to reach to the plateau below:

Deva Ghanekar - founder member of Unad Group during descent:

We spotted a small shack after descending the hill. You need to take a right trail from here.

Soon, we were walking on the plateau. Virag spotted and showed us the pyramid ants. These ants are eaten in Konkan region in the form of chutney and they taste delicious. Amused with this information, we marched ahead.

Ant nest on the tree:

Some leopard seemed to have passed this trail and left his droppings. Leopard's droppings consist of lot of animal hairs eaten by him.

Tushar spotted a large snake skin in the yellow grass and he straightened it out on the trail.

We spent some time on the water stream. As this is the stream right in the jungle, it is frequented by wild animals especially in the morning and evening.

We crossed the dry water stream along the way.

There was a steep ascent later on which tired most of us. After ascending this steep ascent, we munched on few snacks and marched further.

We reached to a large plain as sun was rapidly moving to western horizon.

Reaching close to our destination:

Sights of Bhairavnath temple thrilled us signalling the end of our trek.

As it was around 5.30 in the evening, we decided to do fort exploration in the evening itself and after  keeping the rucksacks in the temple, we marched ahead on the western side.

We took a traverse from the East side of Bhairavgad going towards South side.

Bastion of the fort:

Standing on the bastion we could gauge the drop of several hundreds of feet ending at Konkan region.

After coming on the South-West side of the fort, we marched towards North direction. Most of the remnants of the forts were hidden under the grass and bushes.

Dilapidated entrance:

Sun was gradually taking its strides towards the western horizon. It had started becoming crimson red. Sky was adorned with cumuli of clouds of random shapes and colours. Sun was playing hide and seek with the clouds creating wonderful effects of diffused light. Euphoria prevailed as we were witnessing this glorious display of nature's magic.

Water tank

Sun had almost set as we finished our exploration. Just before the dark, we returned back to the temple.

After stacking some water from the water cistern just below the temple, we assembled inside the temple. Our guide had a severe headache and he slept inside the temple.

As we still had some time to prepare dinner, Virag mesmerised us by displaying the contents of his waist pouch and we were really amazed to see his collection of things; right from the tiny sewing needle to rope.

Temple was very spacious and clean with the attached room where the chullah was already set. We had collected few dry wooden sticks and we soon lit the fire to prepare Khichadi. Onion, potatoes were cut, few utensils from the temples were washed, raw rice and dal were cleaned. Virag took the responsibility of cooking the rice.

End result was disastrous. Because of the new rice and imperfect measurement of rice, despite pouring many litres of water, rice remained uncooked. Despite properly lit fire and heat, rice remained  partially uncooked. Fortunately we were carrying extra food. Few of the members did not mind the uncooked food and consumed it in full proportion.

It had become very cold outside and I tucked inside the sleeping bag immediately after dinner. Few of the members went outside for star gazing and what I heard in the morning, they had a nice time outside and I regretted for not joining them.

After having the sound sleep, we arose at the crack of dawn. Today we had to hike back to Chaphe Khadak village. As there was a great chance of sighting the wild animals early in the morning, we hurriedly finished early morning chores, quickly munched on few snacks and started our return hike.

Last glimpse of Bhairavgad before return hike:

Team ready for return hike:

Our guide asked us to remain silent to augment our chances of sighting the animals and we listened obediently. After all, it isn't always that you get the opportunity of hiking in dense forest infested with wild animals. We were covering a lot of distance rapidly in the cool breeze but still sighting of any animal eluded us.

Still, there was some hope as we hadn't reached to the large plains and near the water stream along the way. As guide was experienced and had already battled with bears in the past, we were not much worried about confronting any wild animal but still there was some fear inside.

As soon as we descended a hill and joined the large plains, a pack of wild Indian Jackals gave us the much needed sightings. We were thrilled to have the sightings and so were these jackals. Both the species seemed to have mutual admiration for each other and both kept starting at each other amusingly. Finally these jackals entered the thickets and disappeared.

We rested beside the stream and munched on few more snacks. We really wanted to spend as much time as in the forest and just lingered on the banks of the stream. After a small snacks break, we resumed our hike.

Ascending last hill after which there was a plain walk of many kilometres before a descent:

Soon, we reached to one of the spectacular wonders - Ramghal. There was just a small streak of waterfall falling over Ramghal which somewhat dampened the excitement. Still, it was a very serene place.

We rested a bit and had another round of snacks.

We soon were back to the village. After paying our guide, we bid adieu to him and soon came back to the place where we had parked our car. We returned to Pune after having a sumptuous lunch on the way recovering all the lost calories.

Bhairavgad nestled in the dense forest of Koyna is definitely one of the thrilling hikes of Sahyadri. Walking through the forest infested with the wild animals keeps you alert and excited all the time and make the hike one of the memorable ones. Bhairavnath temple with its serenity and location leaves an indelible impression on your mind.

Trekkers:
Prashant Kothawade, Tushar Kothawade, Chinmay Kirtane, Deva Ghanekar, Mukund Pate and Virag Rokde

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Happy hiking!

Appeal: No litter; no plastic; no wrappers; keep the mother nature clean!