Vadgaon-Kudpan-Pratapgad -- The Sublime Trail Trek -- Part I

“Vadgaon-Kudpan-Pratapgad trek planned on 5^th and 6^th Sept. Would you like to join?” A SMS from Sanju Nana (Sanjay Amrutkar, my cousin and veteran trekker and photographer) popped up on my mobile screen. I immediately answered in the affirmative as nothing was planned by me on this date and it was still 2 weeks to go. 

In few days, final group of four was formed from Pune side – me, Tushar – my elder brother, Milind Kulkani and ND Gaware (both marathon runners and with whom I got introduced during Vasantgad trek with Onkar Oak few weeks back). Nana’s group of 12 trekkers from Nasik was departing on 4^th Sept night at 11.30 PM and Pune’s group was departing on 5^th Sept morning at 4 AM and our meeting point was Mahad in Konkan.

Everyone from Pune Group assembled at my place at 3.50 AM and we started our journey to Mahad via Tamhini Ghat. Though it was very early in the morning, everyone was excited and was looking forward to 2 days’ adventure in the interiors of Maharashtra. There was hardly any traffic on Mulshi-Tamhini road and we quickly covered the distance. 

A quintessential winter morning – pleasant and foggy greeted us as we reached near Konkan. It was unbelievable to experience such a morning in the monsoon. We stopped for 10 minutes on the way to gorge on the sandwiches prepared by my wife the earlier night. Soon, we reached to Mahad where Nasik group was waiting for us.

Rajesh Butala from Mahad, Nana’s friend and veteran trekker who is trekking in Sahyadri since more than 25 yrs, was going to be our guide for next 2 days. After picking him up from his home in Mahad, we proceeded towards Poladpur. 

Following was our plan:

Day 1: Vadgaon (Ratnagiri District) to Kudpan (Raigad District) (Trekking Time: 5-6 Hrs)

Day 2: Kudpan (Raigad District) to Pratapgad Base (Satata District) (Trekking Time: 5-6 Hrs)

As our starting point and ending point of the trek were different and far away, we needed to arrange for a vehicle dropping us to Vadgaon (starting point of the trek) and pick up us from Pratapgad base (last point of the trek). Nasik group had come in a 17 seated bus with a dedicated driver and Pune Group did not have any dedicated driver, its driver being trekker that was me, On Rajesh’s advice, we parked my car at Poladpur at his acquaintance's place and Pune group proceeded in Nasik Group’s vehicle. Nasik group was gracious and glad to accept us in their vehicle which was really crammed by our addition. After further journey of 2 hours, we reached at Vadgaon. (Time: 11.30AM).

We were already late as per the planned schedule; so without wasting further time, Nana set instructions for the trek and we started our hike. Santosh was our local guide and was going to guide us till Kudpan along with Rajesh Butala.

At start of the trail, we crossed a bridge built on the river named Jagbudi.

River on which the above bridge is built:

We stopped at a small house, last along the trail to sip some fresh water from the house and proceeded further.

Some flora and fauna along the way:

Flower named Kallavi in Marathi:

Another flower along the way:

There was not an iota of rain; weather was sunny and humid. Therefore, we prepared ourselves for a hike in a sultry and demanding humid conditions. Nevertheless, it was lush green everywhere with paddy fields around. Towering mountains were looking imposing to the eyes. Constant gurgle of sparkling stream water was very soothing to the ears. With this, disappointment of not having a rain quickly dissipated and we started marching in a very buoyant and upbeat mood.

Though we had long distance to cover (almost 5 to 6 hrs), there was no hurry whatsoever and we took frequent stops to do some photography; to capture some group photos. 

Because of the intense humidity, we were getting dehydrated quickly and streams along the trail provided a lot of relief with its fresh water.

Tushar drinking water directly from the stream:

Reflection captured in the water:

We came across a stream which is actually a river named “Jagbudi”. Because of paucity of rain, this river was just looking like a stream with not so much of water. We crossed it without much difficulty though a rope is required to cross it in full rainy season. As it was still humid, many of us remained in water without the worry of shoes getting wet. After getting out of water, we halted for a small snacks break. Wet shoes with water inside provided some funny sensations to the feet. 

Milind Dada enjoying in the water; he prompted me to stand in the water for about 5 minutes.

Water of the stream was very clear and we were able to see through it.

As we still had a long distance to cover and a lot of height to gain, we resumed our hiking which passed through the jungle now.In the jungle, Rajesh Dada spotted a branch with lot of mushrooms on it and we made him present it to Sanju Nana.

Fun moment (Rajesh Dada presenting mushroom stick to Sanju Nana):

We hiked till 2 PM and as many of us had started having hunger pangs, we stopped near the stream for lunch break. Everyone had brought packed lunch and we shared lunch with each other. Some preferred to have a small nap; with sacks as pillows and big rocks as beds. Everyone felt silent after lunch and we experienced a real bliss of tranquillity where the only noise was of chirping of birds and gurgling of stream water. Really an indescribable feeling!

Milind Dada resting peacefully oblivious to any worries.

Sanju Nana and Rajesh Dada having a small nap:

After relaxing for about 30 minutes, we resumed our hike. Before entering the thick jungle, there was a small and risky traverse with valley on the right side. We had to negotiate it very slowly.

Soon, we entered inside the thick forest. Forest was so dense that not a single streak of sunlight was reaching to the ground. Though it provided some relief of not having the unrelenting sun over your head, humidity along with absence of any wind made it equally daunting and laborious to push your body up on the steep slope. 

In this time, it is absolutely essential to take it one step at a time and not too get overwhelmed with the remaining hiking distance. Also, in these sweltering and inhospitable conditions, you always need to keep yourself well hydrated. Your brain really works with the way how you control it; so don’t let negativity creep into your head and find some motivating thoughts; take some action which will make you feel inspired and positive. For me, taking a small photography break always works and I really feel energized once I capture a good photo. This time, during this exhausting trail, at one point, this flower captured my attention with some light and shade on it and photographing it energized me instantly to take on next part of the hike.

Santosh, our local guide was making sure to cut the heavy bushes along the trail with his scythe to make it easier for us. So we had to frequently stop while he was at work. Finally, this exhausting climb was over and we reached on the top. My joy knew no bounds and I just brought the sack down, placed my camera down, gulped a lot of water and just lied down on the lush green grass oblivious to the outside world.

Few of the members were resting few metres ahead of me but I preferred few moments of absolute solitude and stillness. These few moments really had a wonderful effect and soon my batteries were fully recharged and I joined other trek mates.

A thousand feet waterfall captured everyone’s attention and this majestic waterfall cascading down from such an imposing height made us forget the world. We were glued to this setting for a long time. 

On the Southern sight, layers of the mountains provided feast to the eyes.

Finally, it was time to march ahead. Soon, we walked beside a stream to have a great look at two waterfalls -- one on the opposite mountain and other one directly from the source of the stream along which we were walking. 

Stream which was later getting transformed to a gigantic waterfall of several hundred feet. 

This time, we could see this gigantic waterfall in one frame from top to bottom. Though I had wandered a lot, I had never witnessed such a gigantic and incredible waterfall. 

"Bhimachi Kathi" (right to the waterfall), a nature's wonderful creation is a towering vertical column of rock rising from the valley below and completely detached from the main wall of mountains. Rajesh Dada shared his experience of the past when he along with Arun Sawant Sir had rappelled down from this vertical wall of Bhimachi Kathi! Hearing this, my respect for him increased manifold.

While I was wrapped in thoughts, Rajesh Dada called me on other side of stream. I crossed it with utter precaution and was just transfixed to see that the stream that I had just crossed was the source of another gigantic waterfall. It was frightening and equally exciting to see this stream getting converted into a big waterfall by standing on the ledge of the valley. Here, I was standing on the ledge watching this stunning waterfall so closely and where the straight and steep fall of several hundred feet was hardly few inches away. Tushar Dada, my brother pleaded us not to linger on the edge. Still, we did not have enough of this rare sight and left only when we got satisfied.

Group enjoying near the source of the waterfall:

While everyone was busy in photography, Paresh Amrutkar became the subject of my photography. As we was probably sleeping peacefully and very still, I was able to take this photo with a long exposure.

After witnessing these majestic sights, we resumed our last part of the hike.

Lush greenery, evening light, colourful clothes and happy faces! What more a photographer can ask for!

Shrikant still had energy left to jump for the photo.

Soon, our trail joined to a good tar road leading us to Kudpan village. Within few minutes, we came to the site from where we could clearly see the waterfall, source of which we had just visited.

As we were walking on the tar road, sun was gradually setting on the west. I was walking along with Nana having some meaningful conversation with him. Most of the team members were far ahead and we were enjoying our last stretch of leisurely walk.

As soon as we reached to the village, Rajesh  Dada asked us to have a bath in the stream where few of our group members had already gone. I too joined these members, had a wonderful bath in the pond formed at the coarse of the stream. Water really has some remarkable effect on the body and all the fatigue, tiredness, stickiness of the body evaporated as I immersed myself in the cold water.

Spending time with village kids who were very happy when I clicked and showed them their photos:

Hot tea was served when we reached to the house of our host where our dinner was arranged. ND Gaware, marathon runner taught me some stretching exercises recommended after a strenuous hike or run. I followed his instructions to the best of my abilities. I felt further refreshed after doing these stretches.

Some nice devotional songs were being played in the temple inside the village and as dinner’s preparation was still on, I along with few of the trek mates made a visit to this temple. Temple was beautifully built and well maintained.We just perched inside the temple, resting and meditating for a while.

Soon, sumptuous and hot dinner was served of Tandul Bhakari, Chavali Usal, Dal-Bhat, Papad and Kakdi Koshimbir. We wolfed down the food as everyone was hungry with the day’s toil. A large dormitory like room was provided us for sleeping and most of us were in the sleeping bag by 9 PM. It was hot inside and there was no fan, so instead of sleeping inside the sleeping bag, most of us chose to sleep on the sleeping bag. Few members started snoring within few minutes; I was awake for about 15 minutes reminiscing the beautiful moments of the hike. Soon, I, too, went into the deep slumber with a dreamless and sound sleep oblivious to the snoring and other disturbances around. 

Click Here to read Part II